This is something that I for one didn't pay attention to when I started Lucy, but it is *so* important. If, when your dog is walking up to sheep, and they are met with resistance from the sheep, you need for your dog NOT to flank back and forth. Derek talked with me about this in the clinic I was in. When a dog flanks side to side, it signifies to the sheep that the dog is weak, and this will just embolden the sheep to stay put.
On the east coast, we generally encounter well dogged sheep, some more than others, but for the most part, sheep that really want to leave the set out when a dog comes. So, our dogs just don't get that experience- that ability to walk into pressure, remain calm, and put as much pressure as needed to move the sheep- and not having to bust into them to relieve that pressure too. So, what's an easterner to do? Get your dog on "harder" sheep, and work it. Work it enough that your dog looks forward to wielding their new found power.
You should start out there to help your dog, and praise your dog. It isn't easy- some dogs don't like the idea of a mess happening, some just aren't comfortable that close, and some just plain would rather just stay further off. They can all be taught this though.
Sometimes, putting the dog on a lead will really up their confidence- it may sound counter intuitive, but trust me, I have seen it work. Most dogs will move forward on that leash, as opposed to side to side. Try it.
So, you get your dog on a leash. You ask your dog to walk up. You let your dog lead you. As your dog walks into that pressure, you can either steady them with a steady command, or just let them push. If you think if you say something that they will bust, then just don't say anything. Do this every single day you are working sheep. Make it so old hat that the dog is comfortable anywhere. Once your dog is looking like he/she really wants to walk into that pressure more, get that lead off, and be there again to help back the dog up- but hang back a bit further each time. If your dog busts in, back up again, and be closer with your dog. Once the sheep have turned, have your dog take them some where so he/she knows there is a purpose to this.
Okay, so now you have a nice drive up/off. That's a start. Now, you need a good fetch lift. Since you are not on the same side as your dog, you can't be there to help with back up. So, what you need are sheep who are a bit more dogged, but who would rather not come straight to you- deep snow, water, anything that makes it hard. This is a good way to start. You will start to see the last part of your outrun segue into a smooth, forward moving lift, and the ability to handle the pressure when your dog faces it. Really make it hard for the sheep to move off- the not "hard" sheep. Give your dog lots of experience on these sheep. Then, slowly move onto those "harder" sheep. If you take your time, you will see your dog's most favorite work will be this "one one some" time with the sheep. Since the lift is pretty much what will define our runs, if you have this sussed you are there.
Here is a video of Lucy, I made a few weeks ago. Please note the sheep. They are lambs, they are not well dogged (at all), and they put good pressure on the dog. If you run it in slow-mo, you will see how Lucy focuses on each sheep that is standing her, and keeps moving forward toward them- not avoiding them. This is what we want. Lucy is not very crouchy, which BC folks may notice, but she is well using her eye, and her push is just enough to calmly turn the sheep. Note that last sheep that she turns. It was in the back of the pack, and it's appearance could cause a dog to grip, as the dog may not expect all but one to move off. Anyway, these are just some things that I have found useful.
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